Orange Friesland

I’ll put up pictures of some of my Dutch regiments starting with Orange Friesland.


Above is a close up of the command stand of the first battalion.  I have quite a few Dutch regiments done, but the flag situation for the Dutch is a bit sad.  The flags on this unit are from Adolfo Ramos.  They are very nice flags, but he only does flags for 4 regiments: Orange Fries, Slangenberg, and another that isn’t in my order of battle.  I really wish he’d do at least the flag for Salisch, as OF, Slangenberg, and Salisch were brigaded together and assaulted the towns along the river on the left flank of the Allied line creating a crisis for the French in that part of the field.

Here are the two battalions of Orange Friesland side-by-side.


They were absolutely the first figures I painted for WSS way back when, I’m pretty sure preceding even Picardie for the French.  Front Rank does not make Dutch figures with button hole lace so I tried painting it on myself.  I don’t think it turned out that great.  But there weren’t many figures in the Dutch army with button hole lace, so I’m not holding my breath that FR will ever make such.

I quite like the combination of dark blue with red facings.  It’s a nice easy combination to paint.


You may notice from the photo of the 2nd battalion above that I give the Dutch regiments 4 stands and from the banner at the top of the blog that I give the French regiments 3.  I do that because the Dutch with fewer ranks in their formation would be wider.  But I only model each unit 2 ranks deep regardless.  I like the looks of the modellers’ units when they have chosen to depict them with more ranks, but I’m not up to doing the painting for that.  I’ll do a posting with more about unit frontages and impact for modelling and gaming in another post.

I think I’ll be getting in a game next week.  I can’t wait.



Belgian Farm

How can one game Ramillies, or many of the battles of the War of Spanish Succession in the lowlands, without a Belgian farm complex?  I’ve been on the lookout for one of these for some time, and now, Miniature Building Authority, has produced just what I need.  Here’s a pic of it on my gaming table: Image

It’s very nice.  There are 4 buildings and two wall sections.

This looks like the main building: Image

Looking at that picture, it looks like the tower is leaning, but it isn’t.  It’s a combination of mostly me putting the roof on in a hasty manner accentuated by the camera angle.

It comes painted as shown, very nicely indeed.  You can get one for yourself on their website here:

I’ll do a separate post about the dragoons in front soon.

Vendome and Ga Pa (part 3)


This is a command stand with the Vendome figure from Front Rank.  The other command figure is from Front Rank also, a French general I think, but I’m not sure.  I imagine the generals can be used pretty interchangeably in armies either French or Allied.  I’m not sure there was distinctive general attire for the different nations.  If there were, I’d love to learn more about that.


They are nice figures.  I’m not sure I like the orange horse.  I keep working on Duns trying to make them better.  It looks a little more orange in the picture than it does on the table, but it’s still a little too orange I think.


I promised in a previous post some more about Ga Pa.  I’ve covered setup and command, the command being the key part of what makes Ga Pa a really excellent game.

All unit behaviors are governed by a table called the TQ table.  TQ stands for troop quality.  Troops are rated from highest (fanatic) to lowest (rabble).  Each army has lists (of course) that allow you to determine what your composition of troops should be.  The French army for example is made up mostly of horse considered Green and line infantry considered Trained.  There are of course better troops, the Vieux regiments are veterans, as are the Maison du Roi.  Elite troops are rare.

For just about anything you need to do with units in the game, whether it is making an uncontrolled move, firing, charging, or resolving close combat, you make a roll against the row on the table corresponding to the quality of the troops attempting the action.  The row being used can be increased (but not very often) or decreased (more likely).  So, for example, a typical French chevaux-leger unit, once disordered, will be testing as if rabble, rather than simply green.  To determine a result, 2d6 are rolled against the row and the result can either be decisive success, success, failure, or decisive failure.  This is cross referenced with whatever is being attempted on the relevant chart (charging, firing, or close combat for example) to determine the final outcome.  I keep threatening to make a poster of the TQ chart and hang it on the wall of my game room when we’re playing because you use it so often but haven’t done so yet.  I imagine that if we played more frequently, we’d have it memorized.  Typically by the end of a game you don’t really have to check that table because you’re pretty sure you know the result.

Fire combat is straightforward and very constrained.  You shoot straight ahead and if you’re target isn’t straight ahead of the middle of your unit, your fire against it is halved.  To roll you throw 2d6 against your TQ, and cross reference the result with the amount of firepower your unit has.  The results are variants of heavy casualties, casualties, or light casualties (and of course, when you really need to get a hit the inevitable, No Effect!).  The defender then rolls on the TQ and cross references the result against the receiving casualties table.  Units can disorder, fall back, or flee, and may suffer a step loss.  A step loss represents a permanent loss in capability for the unit, degrading its ability to fire and be effective in close combat.

The most direct way to get into close combat is to get close to the enemy then close in the closing phase.  Mounted can sometimes charge but most of the time and for everything else, one needs to close in the closing phase.  Close combat is resolved on the close combat table, typically defender checking first.  Close combat continues until one side breaks off.

These mechanisms are all simple and elegant, and taken together with the order system and uncontrolled movement result in games that are very believable for the period.

The next time we play I’ll take some pictures and notes along the way and describe how the game gets worked out using the rules.  Hopefully this will be soon, as after writing this, I’m kinda jonesing for a game.